so stoked to see Yamaguchi-san ripping it up this morning. we scored Bowls pretty empty for an hour.
Yamaguchi-san catching the best waves and getting ready for the round house cutback.
beautiful! so smooth and so nice!!!
after surfing for 3 hours, we got hungry. so headed to the best garlic chicken and curry plate on the island.
yes, only $8.75. cheap and delicious.
then we went to check out the waves everywhere. started off at Point Panic and ended up watching the whales jumping outside.
it was Yamaguchi-san’s first time seeing whales so that must have been pretty exciting.
then we when to check Diamond Head. guess what? more whales jumping outside!
i have the best binoculars so when looking through it, it looks like the whales are right in front of you. it’s amazing.
then round 2 at Rock Piles. so perfect and so uncrowded. watch out for the local guy getting barreled!
then it was backside off the lip time.
thank you Yamaguchi-san for the wonderful day of surfing and whale watching…
