Mango Fever…..

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good morning. gosh, we’re having such a good time here. the waves are small but who cares. i just surfed chest high cloud 9 this morning. the water is so clean… and the food we’ve been eating? unreal. went to a yakitori place last night in the town. choose what you want to eat, and they cook it for you. we had chicken, pork, and half of an aku, or katsuo. it was so good…… this trip is different than any other trip because i’m with 7 japanese guys that all have camera’s and video cams. and yes, we are using it all the time. so this trip will be well documented for sure. anyway, all we need is some waves, then this trip will be perfect. well, for me, it’s already perfect. salamat…..

there’s a little place we eat across the street. they have a little pig on the side tied on a leash. i asked the lady when they were going to eat this pig. she said in november, for her daughters 1st birthday. shucks, i wanted to be here so i can eat the feet. haha. it’s a joke.. sorry kalua…. but you know what, there’s so many little pigs and chickens running all over the place. if you go to a restaurant and order chicken, they will grab one, break the neck, and it will be served to you in 30min. that’s how it’s done here. back home, we just run to costco…. spoiled people….

want to live the dream? buy cloud 9 resort. but make sure you invite me every typhoon season. if you don’t, it’s not for sale….

to get around here, you need to jump on a motorcycle. for 20 peso, or 50 cents, you can get a ride into the village. but expect to ride with other passengers. i shot this photo from the back, sitting in front of me was hayato, then tokura-san, then the driver, then shimpei on the handle bars. that’s 5 guys. haha….. only in the philippines… anyway, we went to the festival yesterday in general luna. right when we got there, it was finished. oh my gosh…. anyway, we walked all around for a place to eat. we were so hungry that we didn’t even care what we ate…..

all the dishes tasted good. the one in the middle was the best. i offered hayato to try some but he said no thank you. then when i was on my last bite, hayato told me that i was eating dog. i lost my appetite. ruff ruff…..
**how’s this, the mango here is so good. sweet and juicy. i ate mango chicken curry, mango pancakes, and a mango smoothie. and i’ve only been here 2 days. mango fever. right now, i’m going to order some more mango pancakes and a mango shake for breakfast. maybe now my meat will taste as good as kalua’s… [:??$B”y(B???:]
**oh, and how’s this. gerry from sagana and the guys at billabong gave me an invitation for the contest. shit, so lucky. there’s 44 surfers and the format will be like the WCT. round 1, 3 man heats, 1st goes to round 3. 2nd and 3rd got to round 2. so we all have 2 chances to surf cloud 9 with 2 other guys out. WQS judges are here, the billabong bosses, and some bad ass surfers from japan, tahiti, europe, hawaii, bali, australia, and california. yes, this is an international contest and it is so international. they even flew in an australian doctor for the event. philippines is going big….. all the boys are on the ferry coming tonight so it’s going to be a mad house from tomorrow. well, starting tonight…. have a great day and be safe and happy. just like me….. haha….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide