this is the reason i tell everybody not to even try to duck dive under me. you can’t duck dive that deep!!!
Kelly Slater’s pool cost $30 million to buy, and even more to maintain. who in the world would want to buy that??? even if i were a billionaire, i still wouldn’t but that. why? because i know if i caught one wave in that pool, i’d be bored.
check out this amazing photo Matsu took at our secret spot in Sumatra. if i had even $1 million, i’d buy this beachfront piece of land, build a resort, and fly my best friends over all year around on a private jet. and i’d do that for 30 years. now that’s a great way to spend $30 million.
i was out at Rockpiles yesterday and saw Chifumi-san ripping! surfing all those big and dangerous Boot Camp waves in Indo made her into a very confident surfer. no fear anymore!
and this kid has no fear too! i love it!
back in 1994, i paddle out to Off The Wall before the sun came up. there was only one other surfer out and i see the worlds best water photographer Chris Van Lennep swim out. i line up, i see a 8′ set coming, i see him setting up, i take off, i pull in, then i go home. two months later, i go to the nearest book store in Fujisawa and see this on the newsstand. my first Surfing Life cover shot that made my dream come true. this was my million dollar wave…
