HNL to JPN to WQS: Day 1

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gosh, it feels like i left Hawaii weeks ago. i had to be at the airport at 8am so i went for a surf at 5:30am, broke my board, cut my foot, and came in shortly after.

came home to grab my stuff, and headed to HNL.

seen a bus driver texting and driving at the same time. this is how accidents happen…

was glad to board my flight and head to the contest in Chiba. i just gambled but the gamble paid off as Seth won his quarter final heat while i was up in the air. i kind of knew he would.

got to NRT, Naoka picked me up, then we went straight to see the boys. this is Team Hawaii and i was so happy to see all of them. i want to thank the Inaba-san Family for taking good care of the boys. i really appreciate your kindness.

had a few hours of light left so we went hunting for a wave to foil. and guess what? i found the perfect one!

i set up my board, and foiled into the sunset. i had the greatest time at Ichinomiya riding such smooth and perfect waves. right off the airplane into another airplane feeling…

then i watched Mayumi-san ride wave after wave until it got dark.

and when it got dark, it got even more beautiful.

i’m so proud of Seth for showing such maturity and sportsmanship. he didn’t get the win, but he surely won a lot of hearts in Japan. the whole beach was cheering for him all week. and now, Seth is more famous than Kelia in Japan. haha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide