had another blazing hot Summer day with another super cool family. 13 year old Soushi-kun riding the longest waves of his life. this kid surfed super good from his first wave till his last.
Fujita-san came to the outside and caught some nice sets. the waves and smiles were amazing!
16 year old Yuuji-kun is a super strong kid. if he keeps on surfing, he’s going to be a power surfer!
super fun surfing with the boys! the waves and conditions couldn’t have been any better.
guess who caught the set of the day? yup, Soushi-kun! look at this kid go! i told him to keep looking forward so i don’t think he knew how big this wave was? haha.
big wave, big smile…
Fujita-san feeling very comfortable after a few waves. surfed his last few waves so perfectly.
Yuuji-kun pays rugby so i wouldn’t want him tackling me. i still can’t believe how strong this kid is.
then spent a wonderful time eating poke for lunch. thank you Fujita-san, Jun-san, and boys for the super fun morning!
i’ve had a temperature gauge in the truck for 7 years and this is the first time it hit 35 degrees! omg, it was so hot today!!! surfed this afternoon and got super good waves, and super good sunburn. photos coming later…
checked Diamond Head right before dark. even though the waves were good and i love to foil, my body told me “slow down, go home, and cool down.” i listened to my body…