yesterday surfing with Tashiro-san was the start of the Hurricane swell. the waves were coming up way overhead and i was surprised we got out. when Tashiro-san asked me how big the waves were, i told him only chest high. that’s my way of calming somebody down that looks nervous. and it worked!
then a big overhead set came and i yelled “paddle!!!!” Tashiro-san turned around and took off on the biggest wave of his life!
i was riding on the side yelling “yeahhh!!! come to find out, that was the biggest wave he’s ever ridden!
then we caught one in and that was enough. i’m so happy to see surfers challenging themselves.
a day this young surfer will never ever forget… good job Tashiro-san!
then came to the beach and watched the love seals playing with each other. this is a very rare encounter. actually the first time i seen 2 playing like this.
then early this morning, only one of them left. returning to normal.
this morning the waves were freaking huge! when i finally made it out to the lineup, i couldn’t believe only Chizu-san was out. she told me she was glad to see me and i know that feeling because it must have been scary out there for her. haha. and i knew it was getting bigger really fast.
then the perfect set rolls my way. i turn, take off, and catch a perfect left! i was flying down the wave so fast that i thought i was surfing the North Shore or something. by the time i went in, the waves were 10′ and out of control!
i told Chizu-san and Kanda-san, “i really respect you guys for even making it out here.” in my mind, i was thinking “i don’t think they really know how big the waves were???” put it this way, i grew up in Hawaii my whole life and never ever seen the waves this big and powerful in my lifetime. and if you asked some of the pro surfers that were surfing at Bowls, they would tell you the same thing…
then went to eat a survival lunch that was much more safe. haha. good job Kanda-san! lots of respect for you! and nice to see you again Megumi-san! your husband is very brave…
