the Hurricane swell is sticking around. i was surprised to see some leftover sets this morning at Bowls. took Oku-san out this morning and look at his first wave. so beautiful! Go Oku-san!!!
surfed for a couple hours and had fun. fun riding waves, and fun duck diving under 100 waves. it was non-stop.
last wave of the day. time for lunch.
then it was time for my last wave of the day. the waves are so good this year so i’m pretty happy to have stuck around this summer. and it’s not ending yet…
happy session, happy surfers…
another day, another pho. great job Oku-san! keep on surfing…
