so cool to pull up to the beach and sea nature at its finest.
very calm and cool lying on the beach taking a nap.
nothing was calm and cool in the ocean. like i said, i never seen the waves at Rockpiles this big in my whole life. easily double overhead and some bigger freak sets. look at Chizu-san running for her life!
then the other side of the wave greets us with a double rainbow. how cool is that?
i told Kanda-san to sit close by me and when i say go, you go!
then i see the most perfect right set coming right towards us. i yell go and the rest is history!
Kanda-san on the biggest wave of his life! i was paddling on the top of the wave screaming!!!
this was my last shot before i pulled back. then when i turned around to paddle back out, a huge 10′ set broke on my head. got held down for 2 waves and that was just the first 2 of 10 waves on my head. i’ve never experienced the South Shore this big and powerful. i was actually so stoked!
then i see this big red ball riding a wave from the outside to the inside. omg, it was the red channel buoy!!! the waves were so big that it was breaking outside of the buoy and it broke.
on the way in, saw Kekoa Cazimero and we were talking about how this was the biggest swell ever on the South Shore. it was so big that everybody had to come in.
Kanda-san was a very lucky man to experience what he just did. this surfers life will never be the same…
ended the day with tapioca milk tea. my favorite!
last was Banan. thank you again Kanda-san and Megumi-san for the amazing day!
