9/11 Terrorists or 9/11 Surfers….

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9/11/2003 10:31 AM. only 2 years after 9/11. travel advisory warnings still posted at embassies warning americans traveling to the philippines. even though my friends and family tried to talk me out of it, i went. we were on a boat for a week going around remote islands where terrorists were known to be. was i scared? heck yeah. i slept in my trunks with a lot of money in my pocket. my passport, mask, and snorkel near by. i had a plan. if terrorists tried to hijack our million dollar yacht, i was going to jump overboard, dive down, and try to escape. i slept like that every night on that trip. then when we pulled up to surf spots that nobody has ever surfed before, terrorists were the last thing on my mind. it was surf first, worry later… check out our yacht in the background. then these 2 locals came to witness what nobody in that area has ever witnessed before. SURFING….

this shot john callahan took was published in a magazine. it’s at the same spot in the photo above. this is a better view of our yacht anchored in the back. sick yeah? we surfed that spot all day long and it was only us. i don’t think we even named this spot. did we?? we surfed our brains out that trip. found 2 new spots that i know when i go back, nobody will be there. surf expeditions pay off…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide