morning session started off with Nanami-san being very calm.
and when you can be calm, you can surf amazingly. just like this!
Gavin started from the beginning with me. from a heavy 11’0 beginner board to now a 9’0 high performance pro longboard. and now this kid is feeling the speed.
and i think he likes it! all that practice made this kids progression lighting fast!
but nobody is more stoked then Mom. she told me that surfing is the best feeling in the world. i know exactly what she’s talking about…
Gavin’s surfing went up 3 levels today. now i think he is officially hooked on surfing.
a beautiful way for a Mother and Son to spend a morning. no where else will beat it.
and to share waves is even more ultimate. surfing has changed their relationship for the better. and that makes me freaking so happy!
i sold my old foil board to this guy who is trying and trying to figure it out. so when i saw him at Diamond Head struggling a little, i paddled out and gave him the ultimate advise i give to all new foilers. “NEVER GIVE UP!!!”
because once you figure it out, your life will never be the same! i’ve never been so excited about life in my whole life. surfing has giving me pleasure for 44 years, now i plan to foil for the next 44 years. a windy waist high wave has never given me this kind of excitement! haha…
