after coming back from the most beautiful place on earth, the first thing i see this morning is rubbish littering our ocean. it made me really sad seeing this right here in Ala Moana. all done by human negligence.
Kitagishi-san was dodging the rubbish all morning long. surfing so smooth and calm.
smiling along the way.
super happy watching him surf so well. and so happy watching him enjoying the moment.
and so happy eating hot pho! thank you Kitagishi-san for the amazing morning!
heard my friend Rod was foiling out Diamond Head so Carter and I headed down. he was doing good!
when i was in Molokai, i had a lot of time to think. thinking about life, and thinking about foiling. so today, i put my thoughts into my foil. the thought of doing my first off the lip! here i am actually committing to the lip.
i felt my foil come off the lip as i turned back down. it felt like the best off the lip in my life! now i feel like i’m actually surfing the wave like a bird! freedom!
Carter is trying new things too. we laugh to watch other friends finally getting into foiling and struggling. we laugh because we know that feeling. and it sucked!
so fun today, and so fun every single day. surf, dive, foil, or travel. all good!
