4-2: Come from Behind

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newlywed couple surfing together for the first time. only a surfer knows the feeling…

the waves couldn’t have been any better. glassy and very long rides.

i could tell Masami-san didn’t want to come in yet. this guy loves to surf.

then went for the poke bowl combos.

then some fresh malasada dessert. more photos coming later. thank you Takako-san and Masami-san for the wonderful morning. rushed home after this to watch Seth’s heat.

some surfers can’t handle the pressure. but Seth thrives off it and that’s when this kid turns on. so needing a huge score with only minutes left, Seth took off on a wave and just went 110%!

i saw him go for this huge floater and wasn’t sure myself if he was going going to make it.

but this kid is sure. if he makes it, he advances to finals day. if he doesn’t, he’s finished.

the whole beach erupted when he made it! i was screaming so loud that i was afraid my neighbors were going to call the police on me. haha.

Josh and Kelia are Seth’s biggest fans. family is everything for the Moniz’s.

Seth got a 8.17 for his last wave and went from 4th place to 2nd place. tomorrow is finals day and i just cancelled my whole schedule for tomorrow because i ain’t missing it. see you at Haleiwa bright and early. Seth’s heat is at 8am sharp!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide