somebody asked what was up with that duck? to be honest, i still don’t know what that was all about. sometimes birds fly onto me, sometimes ducks fly onto me, i still don’t know why? but i really thing somebody is playing a joke on me because this stuff isn’t supposed to happen.
somebody asked me if i’m scared of wiping out? no i’m not. i actually think it’s fun to be in a natural washing machine. the wave is pulling you down while your leash is pulling your leg up. what can you do? nothing but go with the flow…
somebody asked me what do i think about the guy who went exploring to the wrong island and got killed by arrows? i’m an explorer and a very curious person. it could have been me doing that exact same thing. we know the risks to these types of things. this guy chose the life he wanted. he knew the risks and knew that dying was one of those risks. he took that chance and was killed. do i feel sorry for him? not really. this guy probably lived his life to the fullest and died doing what he loved most. so the family now wants to go look for his body? i say no way. leave things the way it is. the natives on that island want to be left alone. so leave them alone. we have to respect other cultures.
somebody asked what the craziest thing i ever did was? i’d say hiking and camping on the top of this active volcano in Guatemala. ever since then, there were many deadly eruptions. so when it erupted again a few days ago, i got chicken skin again.
somebody asked me what i’m going to do this week? i’m on Mayuki right now crossing a pretty crazy channel on this high surf warning. i plan to visit relatives on a neighboring island. then when the swell hits 50′ faces tomorrow, i plan to foil on the way back to Oahu. is it possible? there is only one way to find out…
