opps, i forgot to post this from last year 12/12/18. never too late!
had another cool day with another Marathon runner. Nakamoto-san did it in 4 hours and i wasn’t surprised because this man loves to run!
got out to Rock Piles left and the waves were fun. but looked over to the rights and looked more fun. so where ever there’s more fun, i’m joining!
at Rock Piles rights, you better look forward because if you look down, you will go straight into the shallow sharp reef. so yes, look forward just like this!
and you will have the ride of your life!
don’t mind the SUP behind because he just caught a wave and paddled back to the lineup and tried to catch another one. Nakamoto-san knows when i say go, it means “GO!”
no, it’s not a contest so being inside doesn’t mean you have the right of way. you wait your turn or you will wonder for the rest of your life why everybody rides in front of you. it was Nakamoto-san’s turn and this is how your ride a wave when it’s your turn…
and smile on the way back out.
thank you Nakamoto-san for the wonderful surf session. next time you will ride my foil ok! i know you can do it!!!
foiled in the morning, and foiled in the afternoon. when i paddled out, nobody was out! i had the whole ocean to myself!!! waves way bigger than it’s been so i was flying like a rocket. so fun!!!
