wow, couldn’t believe the waves came up in town today. it’s the biggest it’s been in a very long time. thank you to the East trade wind swell…
so happy to surf with Shin-san. and so happy to see him surfing better than ever.
where was everybody today???? we had Rockpiles lefts all to ourselves!
super fun waves. if this was Japan, there would be 100 guys out!
then we went to the rights to get some rights. totally beautiful conditions with perfect waves and rides…
i had fun foiling out there. super smooth conditions making it so free and easy…
then it was a healthy avocado sandwich for lunch.
this is one sandwich nobody can duplicate. i can’t even describe how good it tastes! thank you Shin-san for the wonderful morning!
then the Apple Genius just flew in from Japan so it was straight back to the beach! this time, Diamond Head!
this was Nao-san’s first wave. must have felt so good to be back in paradise! surfed till sunset!!!
anyway, better sleep early because the Pipeline Masters will be on tomorrow with huge and crazy waves! see you there first thing in the morning!
