so there we were, anchored out this beautiful island where one of the best right handers in indo is. it was 1pm and i thought i’d go for a surf later in the evening when the winds back off. so i went to the beach to kill time picking shells. my eyes were only on the beach looking for rare shells. hours passed and i didn’t keep track of time. next thing, i looked up to look at the waves. kyle took off on a overhead wave, the thing lined up perfect. he did 4 big turns and kicked out. then i thought to myself…. what the heck am i doing on the beach picking freaking shells??? i felt like an idiot because the waves were going off right in front of me and i didn’t even know it. so i ran down the beach, had the dingy pick me up and take me back to the boat, grabbed my board, and raced off to the lineup. gosh, the waves were going off!!! yeah guys, lesson learned. if you go all the way to indo to surf, surf. pick shells when it’s flat. haha…. anyway, here was my catch of that day. good shells and good waves…
**by the way, i’m going to introduce our crew one by one. everybody was cool and had a special story that i wanted to share. so stay tuned…
