Shikoku Surfer Girl Boot Camp

175

our surf session yesterday wasn’t supposed to happen.  but it happened because the universe wanted it to happen.  paddling out to Diamond Head with Seira-chan was exciting because i wanted to see how much she progressed since the last time we surfed 2 years ago.

and from her first wave, i was impressed!  i taught her on a longboard 2 years ago and now she’s ripping on a shortboard?  what???

and ripping into the rainbow!  it was so cool to watch this from behind.

when we paddled out, it was packed!  but a rain storm came by and everybody went in.  then Mr. Sun came back out and we had Diamond Head to ourselves!   so lucky!  i hope Seira-chan doesn’t think it’s like this everyday.  haha.

then as i was watching way off into the sunset, i seen this beautiful and graceful silhouette coming our way.  i immediately thought to myself “what?  is that Kelia?”

yes, it was Kelia and there were 2 reasons why i was so happy to see her.  one was because i love her so much.  and two is because it was Seira-chan’s dream to meet her.

i introduced them and one girls dream came true right at that moment.

Kelia is the kind of girl that can make so many people happy.  she’s been like that her whole life.  it’s all about the Aloha!

and when peoples dreams come true, so do mine!  it’s always been a dream of mine to make other peoples dreams come true…

Kelia was surfing and Seira-chan was watching.  i bump into Kelia about once or twice a year out at Diamond Head.  the timing couldn’t have been any better…

then the crowd came back out and it got crazy.  lucky i had my foil because everyone gets far away from me when i’m coming down the wave.   then all Seira-chan had to do was ride behind me like this.  haha..

when i was checking the waves at Diamond Head earlier, i heard a Japanese surfer girl say “i hate foilers.”   that was so funny…

us hungry surfers ate some Chinese food after.  welcome to Hawaii girl and get ready for a wonderful month of surfing and Hawaiian lifestyle experiences…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide