started off the day early once again. sitting in the ocean watching the sun rise over Diamond Head…
it was Hattori-san’s last day so went to get a few waves before his flight. this is how to maximize your last day in paradise.
such a beautiful morning with amazing lighting…
we were talking about walking the board so i showed Hattori-san how to do a cross step. next wave, here it was! so cool!!! i’m sure he’s smiling and cross stepping all the way back to Japan. haha…
then it was Seira-chan’s turn so we paddled out to Diamond Head. why? because she wanted to surf there….
and she chose the right spot because it was definitely the biggest this afternoon.
i didn’t realize how much uni there was and how sharp the reef below was. usually the water is dirty so you can’t really see it. today was crystal clear.
it’s been way too small and way to shallow to foil so it was fun short boarding. either or, i’m stoked!
i explained to Seira-chan today how important it is to connect to the ocean. anybody can surf, but not too many people can figure out the ocean. everything is moving and no day or no wave is ever the same. so if you can connect and go with the flow, you will be 5 steps ahead of the rest. today was very hard to surf, but this girl was flowing pretty dam good…
i saw the sun rise, and i saw the sun set. now i see my warm bed calling my name. goodnight everyone…
