hanging out yesterday evening watching the most amazing sunset. it was then Asayama-san and i decided where to surf today. straight to our secret spot only accessible by Mayuki…
i was watching Bowls all day and it was good, but very crowded. every hungry surfer on the island showed up and every wave had 2-3 surfers on it.
it was the total opposite for us. many unridden waves, bigger, and thicker.
Asayama-san probably caught his best waves on the South Shore. no stress when there’s nobody around. i foiled the biggest and hollowest waves i’ve ever attempted. i’m practicing for this summer because i plan to charge some big sets at Bowls and Big Rights. that dream is going to be reality this upcoming Summer…
i told Asayama-san that we can’t take photos here. it’s secret and the only place on the island you will find an empty barrel on a Sunday. but i’ll never forget Asayama-san’s amazing waves he caught today. no fear and very calm. as for me, i was freaking out and pretty scared taking these drops with my foil. haha…
thank you Asayama-san for the Yoku Moku! it’s almost gone already. haha…
then went long boarding this afternoon with Team Pavilion. Tomami-san enjoying the ride. more photos coming soon…
what a surprise!!! so happy to see Yumi-chan and Takuya-kun!!!! just seeing you guys makes me so happy!!! two of the most positive people in the world…
