i always stress to people that it’s always good to surf with other surfers. it just brings out the best in you. and this day, Asayama-san and Tomami-san proved it by surfing at their highest level.
Tomami-san paddled out first, went all the way to the outside, turned around, and caught this wave!
as she passed me, i could see her smiling all the way.
then Asayama-san turned on his switch and just started charging big waves. look at his bottom turn? can you believe he’s going to be 19 years old? haha…
this is a photo of a very confident man being very calm. i can’t tell you how happy i am to see this!
then it was Tomami-san’s turn and she just went for it on a big one. super stable and surfing super good.
such a very excited and happy person. Tomami-san can turn anyones bad day into a good one. just her positive vibe rubs off on all of us. in the beginning, Tomami-san was a big fan of Asayama-san. in the end, Asayama-san became a big fan of Tomami-san. this is what surfing is all about…
then look who paddles out? Kelia Moniz! omg, Asayama-san was so happy to see his hero! and Kelia was just as happy to see hers too!
it’s crazy to think of the kind of connection Kelia and I have. i never call or text her, but we bump into each other at the right places at the perfect times. things between us are never planned, it just happens for a reason. and the reason was this!
then after seeing Kelia, Asayama-san turned up the switch one more level. i couldn’t believe how good he was surfing! what an amazing day in Hawaii for all of us!!!
Kelia’s surfing is so graceful, so peaceful, and so beautiful. once she takes off on a wave, all heads turn to her as people watch in awe. at times, i want to yell out “hey everybody, that’s my Niece!!!” haha… can’t help by being a very proud Uncle…
