Back in the day:  Barefoot in Cuba.

Good morning 5am.
Ala Moana big and good. 5′ and clean.
Diamond Head 6′ and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

The day started off shoulder high when I first got out to Bowls.  It was finals day with a new South swell so everybody was expecting the swell to rise rapidly.

Jackson Bunch has been practicing every morning and his hard work paid off.  He made the finals!

From panic attacks to comfortable mindset surfing big waves.  Keeping calm will make your life a lot better.  Just ask this girl.

The waves were getting bigger and bigger at Bowls.  Within an hour, there were 6′ sets!  On the wave right before this one, a 10′ tiger shark was swimming right along the face of the wave.  Everyone saw it.  Cool!

I went home to take a nap, eat lunch, and went straight to Big Rights.  I already knew it was going to be excellent.  Kimo Gasper, Makua Rothman, Koa Rothman, and myself taking turns.  This was Makua’s wave and he ended up getting the best barrel of the day.

Koa Rothman ripping it backside.

Today was the biggest day of the year and it’s going to get bigger!  We’ve had solid surf for over a month and everyone is super happy!  Best Hawaiian summer ever?  So far, yes!

Dean wetting his sponge.

Good morning 3:30am.
New South swell today.
Ala Moana shoulder high and coming up.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!