The swells and barrels continue…

Good morning 3:40am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I surfed with a super positive and happy guy this morning.  It is Kasashima-san’s first time to Hawaii.  He just came yesterday so today was his very first time in the ocean.  From the time we got in the water, he was smiling and smiling.

If you want to ride 25 waves in a session, a longboard is the way to go.  He kept on going, going, and going!  

Really good results from Boot Camp this morning.  Progressing each and every wave.

Kasashima-san told me about 15 times today, “I’m so happy!”  Look at his smile.  So cool!  

I pulled up to Big Rights yesterday and couldn’t believe how good it was.  On big days like this, there aren’t too many surfers out because it’s pretty hard to make it out past the waves.  It was just a couple of my friends sharing big perfect blue barrels.  Thanks boys!

Top Gun all day!

Good morning 3:35am.
Ala Moana head high and coming down.
Contest at Bowls ON at 8am.
Diamond Head overhead and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!