Perfection…

Good morning 3:30am.
North shore head high and good.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Perfect morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

It was one of the most clearest mornings this year.  We are going into winter so this was the first time the ocean was very calm.  Looking out to the horizon, you could see the islands of Molokai and Lanai very clearly.  

Every time I see Molokai, I miss it more.  I know it’s a very close boat ride for me, but the waves have to be flat for me to go and that wasn’t the case today.  

North shore was going to be crowded and so was Diamond Head, so we drove over to the East side and found some perfect head high swells with only 2 other guys out.  It was like a dream session for the girls.  

The reason nobody surfs here is because you have to climb up these sharp rocks and bushes to exit the ocean.  Most surfers fail and never come back.  I taught the girls and they figured it out after freaking out.  Haha.

Round 2 was much easier.  Surfing Bowls with Hashimoto san and watching him ride over 20 waves.  

Watching him doing cutback after cutback making this muscle memory.  Big muscle memory for him.  

The girls catching every wave like usual.  Riding the right boards on the right waves, you can’t go wrong.

Flow.  That was the theme for today.  Go with the FLOW, just like this…

Yesterday once more:  Outer Island view from Diamond Head.

Molokai the friendly island.

Good morning 3:20am.
North shore overhead and perfect. Laniakea best but crowded!
Ala Moana waist high and perfect.
Diamond Head chest high and perfect.
No wind so clean morning conditions.
Sunny and hot.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!