The beauty of Hawaii:  Heliconia

Good morning 3:40am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
No wind so good morning conditions.
Sunny and hot.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

This morning was pretty fun at Bowls.  Sometimes a chest high set and really good conditions.  Of course Malcom got the best waves again.  

We are currently trying to get the backside photo like this.  But in order to go backside, you have to practice the technique.  This is becoming muscle memory and it’s looking good.

When you keep on improving in your surfing skills, it feels so good.  It makes you just want to get better and better.

Afternoon we went back and surfed the rights.  Hashimoto san on his magic board surfing like magic.  

His surfing is getting better and better.  Paddling back out with the biggest smile after each ride.

Mighty Mouse getting ready for the cutback.

Just like this!  Good girl!

Hashimoto-san’s cutback is getting stronger and stronger.  Better technique and bigger sprays.

I went to celebrate Seth Moniz’s birthday!  I can’t believe this kid is an adult.  Surfing the World Tour, catching big fish, a true waterman, and most of all, the kindest human being you will ever meet.  When Seth came home with 2 big Tuna’s, my sister asked me if I was proud of him.  I thought about that question driving home from the dinner and almost cried…

Another early morning pass by.

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light trade winds at 10mph.
Sunny and hot.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!