Toda-san on a nice Bowls left.  Still head high sets and good.

“Above us, only sky.  Imagine all the people, living for today!”

Yesterday once more:  Late drop!

Good morning 3:15am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and fun.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sun, clouds, and showers.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

The waves were really good again today.  I thought it was way better than yesterday because it was a lot more challenging.  More waves, thicker, stronger, and barreling.  

And lots of rainbows too.  I saw at least 15 today!  

After decades of traveling and chasing waves around the world, I’m pretty content with driving 12 minutes to this everyday.  It’s more of a simple surfers lifestyle and I’m loving it.    

Every single wave created a rainbow.  

The rights were actually better than the lefts today.  I got 2 rare barrels on the rights, and Rocky got 5 long and perfect waves like this.  The rights were as good as it gets.  

Interesting weather and artistic clouds all day long.

Came home and had Mateus put in 5 more stepping stones.  It’s crazy how he can do it all by himself now.  I just sat under a tree watching him work.  He asked me why I wasn’t helping.  I said “when you get older, you will understand why.  But for now, keep on digging.”  Haha.  

We worked in the hot sun.  After we finished, we had ice cream and played kendama.  A beautiful day it was.