Tako and Drama

I’m trying to teach this girl how to hunt for tako.  So far, she can find the tako, but is still practicing trying to get it out of the hole.  It takes time and once you figure it out, your success rate will be around 90%.  Until then, it could be 0%.

No tako this time, maybe next time.  Haha.

Getting the tako out of the hole is a little tricky.  It will push rocks in front of you, it will camouflage itself, or it will shoot black ink on you.  You just have to be patient which is hard to do when the tako is so deep under water.  One breath, one tako…

I tell the girls that they can drop in on me anytime they want.  BUT, don’t miss the wave!  If they miss the wave, I’ve been making them pay for it by giving them a salt water shower.  Haha.  

Every single day, these locals surf Diamond Head.  They are kind, respectful, happy, and rippers.  The coolest thing about surfing Diamond Head is that there is absolutely no drama.  Only good times…

Surfers are very street smart.  They will find a way to do anything and everything.  How genius is this?  Nobody has an arm long enough to put sunscreen on your back, but in this case, you don’t need one.  Just figure it out.  Haha.

August 20, 2024 Hawaii Surf Report

Peak Summer:  Rainbows everyday…

Good morning 3am.
Ala Moana overhead and good.
Diamond Head 5′ and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

Open House Sunday

Wow, the waves were BIG this morning!  Double the size as yesterday and the boys and girls were charging!

There’s nothing like coming to Hawaii and surfing your dream…

Throw in a rainbow and it won’t get any better than this.  Big waves, clean conditions, and happy faces all morning long.

Forgot about yesterday’s Round 2 at Diamond Head.  The waves were super fun and if you know how to surf this very tricky wave, you will ride each wave for over a minute.  Right board, right place, and right time!  

Good to see Cedric ripping after all these years.  I met him back in the 1980’s as he was one of the top surfers in Hawaii.  He still surfs everyday!  We surfed Big Rights together ever since so I’ve seen this guy in thousands of big blue barrels these past 40 years.  

Open house on Sunday so we went to check out this $4 million dollar view.  

This one was a little cheaper.  For $2.6 million, you can live here and wake up to this.  

Thank you Neal Miyake for the photo.  Just happily passing on by…