Cold and dark morning. But good waves!

Some people like adventure.  And there is plenty of adventure in Hawaii.  We went to check out surf spots that are very hard to access.  Super secret spots that nobody will be out even on a Sunday afternoon.  This particular spot I use to surf in high school.  And it’s been that long since I’ve been back.  So experiencing this again brought back some great memories.  

There were some chest high waves with offshore winds.  Perfect conditions where you can choose any wave you want to ride.  It was so fun!  

Adventure also means walking down the cliff at Diamond in the pitch dark.  Riding your first wave before the sun even rises.  I can’t even describe how good the feeling is.  

Adventure is to paddle out to a spot in the middle of the ocean.  Waiting patiently for that one wave that breaks every hour.  And when it comes, you’re right there to ride it and have the time of your life all to yourself.  The adventure continues…

Another day in paradise…

Good morning 3:50am.
North shore small but coming up tomorrow.
Ala Moana waist with chest high sets.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Clouds, sun, and showers.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!