Now that the strong trade winds are back, we can reminisce about the days where there were no winds.  Even the birds were happy.

There are only a few days of the year you will see Diamond Head looking like this.  And when it’s like this, there is no where else I’d rather be.

The sunrises are spectacular.  All I think about is how lucky we are to be living in this beautiful world.  

Every spot has its locals.  Mark has been surfing Diamond Head since the early 1970’s so nobody is more local than him.  I love listening to his stories how surfing use to be.  Super cool guy and surfs that place like an expert.  I watch and learn.  

I see guys older than me surfing and all it does is inspire.  I want to surf for the rest of my life too!

Natural Shade…

Good morning 3:50am.
North shore head high and good.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
East winds at 15mph.
Sun, clouds, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

We looked at Diamond Head in the dark and it looked weak and bumpy.  So we drove around the corner and found a perfect clean right hand break.  Nobody was out so that was a treat!  

Going faster and faster each day.  This girl started off on a 11’0 longboard years ago and now has graduated to a 6’2 shortboard.  That’s what you call “progression.” 

I dove down 35′ and waited patiently.  Lots of fish started surrounding me as I kept still and calm.  In my mind, I’m thinking about what I want to eat as every fish tastes differently and is prepared differently.  Then this one came into my range and all I could think of was carpaccio, sashimi, and chazuke.  I took the shot and surfaced a happy man.  

This is my absolute favorite.  I haven’t had alcohol in a very long time so the 2 light beers I drank with this tasted wonderful.  

Just on 2 beers, I woke up with a major hangover.  So I sliced up some more fish, prepared sashimi, and spread thinly slices on my hot rice.  Put some chazuke mix and had the best hangover meal you can ask for.  Thank you ocean for the wonderful meals that fed the family and friends…