Morning at Diamond Head.  Perfect conditions again!

Yesterday once more:  The turtle sequence…

Good morning 4:15am.
North shore waist high and clean.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head waist to chest high and clean.
Light winds so perfect morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

We walked down the mountain in the pitch dark again this morning.  We paddled out and found some amazing waves.  When we first started surfing together in the dark 5 years ago, this girl couldn’t see a thing.  Now she goes by feeling and is so connected to nature.  This is an amazing moment!  

Today’s sunrise was the clearest of the year.  I could see deer eyes on Molokai.  Haha.  Just joking.  But it was as clear as can be.

Now I have to watch out when I ride behind this girl.  She will cutback right into me very soon.  Scary.  

As for this girl, I stay as far away as possible.  Her cutbacks are better than Kelly Slaters.  Haha.

Only a few days out of the year Diamond Head will get like this.  The ocean surface is like oil.  And when the waves come, it’s a dream come true.  

I can’t believe how good it’s been out here.  This is now my favorite surf spot.  

Then it was Kato-san’s turn to go surfing this afternoon.  The wind was wild so everybody came in.  Not us.  This girl surfed so good!  

Only a surfer knows the feeling…