It’s winter wonderland in Hawaii!  Dark, cool, and beautiful.

Good morning 4:15am.
North shore head high from the North.
Ala Moana waist high and offshore.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds back at 20mph.
Rainy and cloudy day.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

It’s been so cold these past few days!!!  Even more cold where I live so it takes a lot of motivation to head down to the beach.  It’s been totally empty!  Not a single person out at Bowls again so that looked very inviting!  

Surfing in the cold is not a problem at all if you have a good wetsuit.  I was actually hot in my Dove Mad Taylor wetsuit.  This one is my warmest top so being one of the coldest days, it was perfect.

My mouth starts to water when I see little swells starting to break.  One wave will take me to 4 or 5 waves on the foil.  I was having the best time out there all to myself.  And also a great exercise.  I thought I was having a heart attack a couple times.  It’s crazy how much energy it takes to foil.  It’s the pumping, and also the adrenaline rush all at once.

Rode my last wave and watched the sunrise before heading back to the beach.

And where there’s sun and rain, of course there will be a rainbow.  An awesome morning with great exercise plus an adrenaline rush.  Took a nap right after so back in bed at 8am.

Always waiting for the perfect wave…

Good morning 4:20am.
High surf warning for East shore.
East swell coming up to 6-8′ today. Jurassic’s going off.
Ala Moana knee high.
Diamond Head waist high.
North/East winds at 25mph today.
Rainy morning becoming cloudy. Hopefully some sun.
Cloudy and rainy winter weather continues all week.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!