Thursday November7日 2024年

Good Wave Dayo….


6:11 am.
Ala Moana Bowls.
3′ or Atama over.
Good Condition
13 Surfers. Anmari kondenai.
I go surf. Go-Naminori.

Ichiriki Nabe….

good morning. 5:45 am and the waves are looking really good again. solid 3′ at bowls and there are 13 guys out already. yesterday was packed early in the morning and today will probably be worst. 40 guys or so are at the park. big rights is looking a little too small. the conditions are PERFECT with light winds. the 2 boys are sleeping in my living room and i’m going to throw water on their faces. wanna see a funny youtube? haha…. i bet diamond head is 4′ and pretty clean. where are we going? ummm… that’s a tough one. too many choices. anyway, have a nice day and see you in the water…[:?????$B!x(B???:]
yesterday i ate mcdonald’s for breakfast, and mcdonald’s for lunch. i was getting sick of seeing ronald… so after surfing all day, shun, seth, and i left kewalo’s at 8pm. i already knew that i wasn’t going to eat any kind of fast food. so it was straight to ichiriki. if i go there with 4 of my friends, we eat 2 nabe’s and are full. shun, seth and i ate 2 nabe’s, 2 ramen’s, and 2 rice soup, or zosui. 3 hungry surfers eating food enough to feed 8 people. i’m not going to mcdonald’s for a while. then after we came home, we ate ted’s bakery chocolate haupia pie that yumie brought over. thanks so much yumie and have a safe flight back to japan….

shun now knows how to make an old board into a new one. it was pretty cute how focused he was during the whole project…

after all that hard work, here is shun’s new board. he was stoked!!! and when seth seen his old board, he couldn’t believe it….

seth was busy yesterday too. check out his art work on his new board. pretty good for a 12 year old kid….

and last, i was just checking out hayato’s blog and seen this cute photo his daughter karen and her art masterpiece… this is just priceless….

Joel Parkinson Wins!!!


Parko Going Off!!!
Taikai Sugokatta desu….