for most free divers or fisherman, catching one GT in a lifetime is a treasured memory. it took me years and years to get my first one and i will never forget that day. this day, kyle and i got 3. another day i will never forget. a photo like this will make a lot of divers jealous. gomenasai….

when i go on trips, i don’t like planning things out in too much detail because you never know what you’ll come across. i like to go with the flow and when you go with the flow, you can experience things that you could never imagine. we were on our drive back from taiji to wakayama city. it was a long 4 hour drive along a beautiful river. then we come across this hot water onsen lake? what? the whole river of hot water? it was weird. along the huge river that went for miles and miles was hot spots. yeah, some places let up onsen style steam and hot springs that make parts of the river piping hot. even too hot to walk on the rocks. anyway, we pulled over, sat around, soaked our tired feet, got back to our long drive. it was a bonus treat that could never be planned in any itinerary…. remember, the key is to go with the flow. and if you can’t do that, you won’t be able to travel with a guy like me…

well, after all the rumors of the women’s pipeline pro being on, off, on, off, on, off…. it’s decided!! ON!!!
April 5-19 2010 with one day of competition. so all you girls, get your entries in because they will probably have a limit of competitors. wish you all the best of luck!!!
**CLICK HERE FOR PIPELINE PRO ENTRY FORM….

good morning. 7:30 am and clean waves around the island. believe it or not, there’s still waves on the south shore. bowls is chest high and EPIC!! the waves look so perfect and 20 guys are already out. pipeline looks 3-5′ and clean. no backdoor shootout contest today so if you want to get barreled, get out there. i bet a spot down at mokuleia is going off right now. perfect size, and perfect winds. ummm… tough call but i’m out of here… have a nice day!!!

yesterday i pulled up to bowls and was the first one to paddle out. it was pitch dark but i think my eyes are adjusting to the darkness because i caught so many good waves. i can’t wait till the next full moon, i’m surfing all night long….

by 7:30 am, i was finished. when i came in, people were asking me “wow, early yeah? what, going to work from now?” i told them “no, i just finished work.” haha…

been eating oranges for breakfast and it’s been tasting pretty dam good. you can’t ask for a sweeter vitamin C. and if it wasn’t for DOVE WETSUITS, i wouldn’t be surfing early in the morning or late in the evening. i’m so warm in the water and when i see other people wearing wetsuits and still cold, i just laugh. something must be wrong. thanks dove for keeping me warm all the time….

remember that shell i found diving last time? i just polished it and it’s now in my collection. nice yeah[:?????$B!x(B???:]

my friend told me where a really good korean restaurant is in town. so i went to investigate….

it was more than good, it was great!!! the food was so good. and to make things better, so cheap!!! there is a happy hour till 8 pm with cheap pupu’s and cheap ice cold $1.99 draft beers….

the place was clean and had a good selection of authentic korean food…

ever eat korean sausage? it was my first time and i’m going to eat it again…

i felt like a korean so i drank like a korean. soju desu….

i wanted to say what’s up to the valet boys down there at halekulani. thanks for always taking care of my parking. you guys are the best!!!
**as for the korean restaurants name, going to keep it low. so far, it’s the best korean restaurant i’ve ever eaten at. even better than the restaurants i ate in seoul. it’s a new spot on my list and my friends from japan are going to be stoked when i take them there. kamsamida….