Nanakuli Tracks Going OFF!!
3′ sunny and beautiful!!!
go-naminori!!!

good morning. 6:30 am on the 23rd of december. hey, 1 more day for japan and 2 more days for hawaii till christmas!!! wow, so fast! i hope everybody is having a great holiday season so far. as for the waves, north shore is big! it looks 6-8′ with 10′ sets at pipe. not too many guys out now. the conditions aren’t the greatest but it’s looking pretty fun. big 25′ swell on christmas day. town is knee/waist high. i bet the west side is good today. well, gotta get going. i’m going naminori!! see you in the water!!! have a nice day[:?????$B!x(B???:]

i was over at point panic yesterday looking at the ocean. gosh, it was so calm and the water was so clean. i wish i had my diving gear!!!

i wanted to thank ieki-san for sending me these photos from tango, kyoto. i can’t believe i was just there and it was sunny and hot…. look at all the snow!!!

now i want to go back to kyoto again. eat hot nabe and sip on hot sake… i wish i could do magic so i can snap my fingers and be there right now…

i don’t like to go into the onsen in the summer but in the winter like this, it feels pretty dam good. maybe next year i’ll spend my winter wonderland in japan….

i was laughing when i seen this photo because i would do the exact same thing. frosty the snowman[:???:]
thank you ieki-san for the wonderful photos of winter in japan. can’t wait to eat some of your delicious pears. anyway, keep warm and i’ll keep you posted on the huge swell your sending us….
**CLICK HERE FOR IEKI BLOG….

we call the north shore “country”. this is why….

i was planning to sell my car and get another one. so my brother fixed everything that needed to be fixed. then i took it to the auto detailers 2 days ago and got it back this morning. the guy worked on my car for 12 hours and now it looks like it’s brand new. now guess what? i don’t want to sell it anymore…. i’m going to keep it for a few more years…

thank you cathy for sending me this photo of a christmas tree. i will print it out, hang it on my wall, and this will be my christmas tree for 2009….

i love the new digital world. i can surf in the morning and by the time i get home, i can see a photo of my session. this was yesterday at inside sunset bowl. this was my second barrel and i remember looking up at the lip because it was so dam beautiful. this is where i love it the most, in the barrel!!!
thanks kinsan for posting this photo on your blog and thanks for letting me see the other ones too. i’m pretty dam stoked!!! see you out there again…