Surf1st : MOROKOT

good morning. 8am and the waves are looking really good. i’m checking bowls now and there are only 5 guys out? why? i just seen a nice chest/shoulder high set and the conditions are perfect. i know somewhere that will be much better so i’m going surfing. see you in the water…. have a nice day!!!

yesterday was the first time i swam in the hilton hawaiian village lagoon. the water was so clean and refreshing. i think it gets sucked in by a pipe out in the ocean so the water is actually pretty cold. yesterday was so hot so it felt good. as you pull into the parking lot, look to the right to see if the water is getting pumped out. if it is, the water in the lagoon is clean. if the pump is broken or off, forget it. you will get sick….

hey, did you guys check out the new SURF1ST? there is the okinawa article in there. yeah, probably the best okinawa season since 10 years ago. i was there and i got hurt on the first day so i was pretty much on the sidelines the whole time. but even though i couldn’t surf, at least i can say i was there in the best 2 seasons of probably 20 years. check out shimpei’s cover shot!! sick!!!

the title of the article is MORAKOT. that was the typhoon that we surfed and it also happened to be the deadliest typhoon in taiwan history. i couldn’t even count how many big days there were. i just hope i can experience another season like this one and if i have to wait another 10 years, i will….. go pick up the new SURF1ST and see all the amazing photos kinsan took. sick!!!

My Home Movies….


i had an eye doctor appointment this morning. there was some good news, and some bad news. i don’t feel like talking about it now. but every time i go to the eye doctor, he puts drops in my eye to have it dilated. so when i leave the office, i’m pretty much blinded…. so when i went to check out diamond head, i couldn’t surf. and i don’t even know how i drive home. your supposed to rest for a while at the doctors office but you know me, no way… i’m out of there….

the winds came onshore in town early so diamond head was the spot. i even checked a secret spot on the east side this evening and the waves were going off. but my eyes were still irritated so i decided to go home and take a nap…

i was digging through some old videos last night and came across this one. seth on the left was 1.5 years old, josh on the right was 3 years old, and i just turned 17 years old. haha… but look at those 2 kids… kawaii!!!

and look at the 2 boys now. gosh, time just flies….

and here’s my 2 nieces temari on the left, and kelia on the right putting makeup on each other. i think they were 5 years old. they both had their first sleep over at my house at that time and i took video of the whole thing. i couldn’t stop laughing at it. i’m going to show it to everybody this christmas at my moms house…. home movies are priceless!!!

Another Perfect Day!!!


Today was so beautiful!!!
Everyday is so beautiful!!!
Hawaii Saiko!!!