No Clouds… HAWAII ATSUI YO….

good morning. 6;30am and the waves are looking good all around the island. north swell, and south swell. laniakea looks fun in the 3′ range with 50 guys out. town has chest high or maybe even bigger sets at diamond head. nice winds making perfect conditions. it’s time to surf!!! see you in the water….

i had lunch with eri-chan and maki-san the other day. the best local style plate lunches on the island. it’s so good that i can’t tell you where… haha…

when i go diving, i’m always looking around. and when i see something cool, i stick it in my pocket. this is what you call “cool”….

i’ve been back for almost a month now and haven’t had 30 minutes to go get a haircut. been too busy. it’s the longest it’s been in years. and at the rate everything is happening, i don’t think i will have time until november. i might have to cut it myself….

ever since i met the kimura-san family (owners of yamari) in wakayama about 10 years ago, they have treated me like a family member. they are such a special family with a special company. yamari shirasu in wakayama produces the best shirasu in japan. and everybody that tried it agrees. tony, seth, and i stayed there a few nights on our last visit to japan. like always, we were treated like family. to me, that’s special… the kimura-san family support for surfers is just amazing. there’s plenty of aloha at yamari shirasu….

i just found out that yamari just renewed their website. it look really professional and naohiro is doing a blog on there. that’s one site i will bookmark for sure…. and if you haven’t tried their shirasu, you don’t know what your missing….
**CLICK HERE FOR YAMARI SHIRASU WEBSITE….

good evening. wow, the waves looked pretty good in town today. i wanted to surf but my body was telling me not too. i’m totally burnt out from too much sun. i stayed indoors all day and i was still freaking hot. i was checking out the 600 or so photos i took in molokai and i’m pretty happy with them, especially the underwater ones. as for the surfing spots, that’s going to be kept a secret. i’ve never to this day seen a photo of the place where we surfed, and i want it to stay that way. yeah, we all took photos and i just hope nobody puts it on their blog or something. all i have to say that the waves were clean, fun, and nobody was out. that’s how oahu must have been 100 years ago and i wish it was still like that now. but it’s not and i have accepted it. so the next time i want go back in time, i know where i can go and it’s only 20 minutes away. just by knowing that will keep me happy for the rest of my life….

if your from hawaii, you should know by now that “opihi” is the most sought out seafood in hawaii. it’s hard to find, taste better than abalone, and costs more than lobster. and not to leave out, it’s extremely dangerous to pick and a lot of people die from trying. we found this little bay that was loaded with opihi’s and picked a bag for our dinner. risky, but worth is….

why cook indoors when you have a beautiful yard overlooking the beach, perfect for a barbecue…. we started in the evening and went all night long….

raw opihi, garlic/butter bbq opihi, bbq chicken, steamed fish, grilled musubi, and lot’s of fun. our barbecue would have costed us hundreds of dollars on oahu. but on molokai, it’s just pennies….

kyle was telling me that this part of molokai is the most beautiful place in the world. i had to see it to believe it. and when i saw it, i feel the same way. mountains going high into the clouds, breathless waterfalls, turquoise water, rocks, trees, green, caves, and pretty much everything you can think of. i’ve never seen anything like that all on one coast. i will be going back there for sure….
**and last, check out the segment of kelia moniz that was featured on fuel tv. pretty cool…. but i just have one question? why wasn’t i in there???? haha…