good morning and happy halloween!! 5:30am and i’m ready to go surfing. the buoy came up to 8 feet 19 seconds so the north shore should be solid 10′ hawaiian scale by this afternoon. or maybe even bigger. i hope i can get barreled again today!!! hope you have a nice day!!! and a great halloween!! boo….

it was pretty cool surfing with all my friends yesterday at backdoor. guys like sunny garcia, wade tokoro, kalani robb, ross williams, and more. talking story and getting barreled? great way to break in the new winter season…

somebody asked me how good backdoor was yesterday? it was this good!!!

and how was pipeline yesterday? it was this good!!! i wanted to thank my sister for taking these cool photos. hope she can take more today because i want to surf!!!

this is what i want to be for halloween tonight. does anybody have this costume i can borrow? jiro is my hiro!!! anyway, see you around tonight. hawaii is the most happening place in the world when it comes to halloween. waikiki is going to be crazy!! boo!!!

Happy Halloween!!
Have a Safe One!!!

for the past 20 + years, i’ve been taking this walk down the path at off-the-wall in the beginning of every north shore season. since today was my official start to the ’09-10 season, i was kind of nervous walking down this path this morning. surfing the north shore isn’t a joke. the very best of surfers die here each year. come february or march, i’ll be running down this trail heading straight for the water. sometimes i don’t even check the waves. but today, i took it slow. i got there at 6:15 am, watched it carefully for 15 minutes, chose my 7’0 to be on the safe side, and walked to the waters edge slowly. as i was paddling out, there were butterflies on my stomach. but once i caught my first wave, it was back to normal. i felt good being out in the most famous point in the world, Backdoor/Pipeline…..

the waves were 3-5′ and not that perfect. you had to go looking for the good one today. i surfed for 3.5 hours and caught only 7 waves. 3 of them barrels. my sister them are staying at the billabong house right in front so she used my camera to take some photos….

this is my second wave. and my first official barrel of the season!!! after i made it out of this barrel, i was thinking to myself, “no where in the world feels better than getting barreled at backdoor. i got so many good barrels in indonesia and japan this year but the feeling is different. backdoor is the most heaviest wave breaking over knee high deep water, it’s also the hardest place in the world to catch a wave because of the locals and talent, and this is my home.” after my long session, i jumped in my car, drove home, ate lunch, took a nap, and went to yoga. my life is finally back to normal and i love it!!! it’s been a while but tonight, i’m sleeping with a big smile on my face. then tomorrow morning, i’m doing the same thing!!! good night….[:Zzz:]
**once again, thanks tammy for taking these photos. tomorrow too??? haha….