fisheye saiko!

ohayo gozaimasu. it was last saturday night when i was invited to the maneuverline house for a sukiyaki dinner. it was there where i had a great chat with kawasaki-san talking about surfing in the 70’s in hawaii. it was getting late and i knew the waves were going to be good the next day so i left early. i knew they stayed up late so i was surprised to see kawasaki-san pull up the next morning. he paddled out and caught a few waves and i happened to be right there. great timing? i think so… thanks kawasaki-san for the sukiyaki dinner and great talk…

seth moniz is the most famous 11 year old surfer kid coming out of hawaii. probably the most competitiveness out of the moniz family. i can’t wait to see how far his surfing will take him. he’s been to japan twice and loves it here. my dream would be him to live in japan, speak japanese, and make friends just like his uncle. then maybe someday he can live in a beach front castle and drive a porsche too. haha….

**another great job by kaz sano putting this video together. when seth gets older, this footage will be priceless… thanks again kaz… see you in hawaii….

good evening. gosh, what a long day it was today. i woke up at 4am and thought the waves were flat so i started responding to emails. then at 7am, this little bird came to my window and whispered something to me. “hey kirby, the waves are super good and barreling down the road.” i told the bird “your joking. that’s impossible, the typhoon is gone.” then he whispered again “forget breakfast, and get your dam ass to the beach right now!” so i skipped my breakfast, grabbed my camera and surfboard, jumped into my porsche, and flew down to the beach. i actually beat the bird down there…..

i pulled up and this is what i saw. perfect 3′ barrels with only 5 guys out. should i shoot? should i surf? i was so confused. then the bird flew over me and said “do both!!” so that’s what i did. i shot and surfed for 3 hours straight. i took photos of barrels, and i got barreled myself. so you ask me what i had for breakfast? i had barrels for breakfast!!! and i was full….

this morning was the cleanest day since i got here. the barrels were crystal and so was the water. look at the river rocks sitting on the bottom. cool yeah….

when i got there, matchi was already out getting barreled by himself. i guess the little bird went to his house first….

then munetoyo tanaka pulled up after and got a few barrels of his own. i couldn’t believe how perfect the waves were today. after i shot a few photos, i grabbed my board and paddled out. and guess what? i got barreled on my first wave. and got barreled again and again. then i jumped into my porsche, drove back to my beach front castle, ate lunch, took a nap, ate ice cream, and went surfing again. gosh, what a life!!! and just wanted to say thank you to that little bird that made my day…[:?????????:]