coming up!
nice barrels.
round 1 start!
new typhoon swell?
Island Grom…
good morning. what a week it’s been. i surfed everyday 2 or 3 rounds and i still want to surf. i guess taking a month off from surfing made me appreciate every and any kind of condition. luckily, it’s been pretty dam good. i’ve been eating healthy and moving around a lot so my body feels good too. i lost 2 kilos and i will probably lose more because the waves just won’t go away. between my rounds of surfing yesterday, i shot some photos and got some really good ones. got a sick barrel shot of kairi that looks like backdoor. stay tuned….
this is reki. i’ve known reki before he even had hair on his balls. he must have been 12 or something and i remember him and yujiro walking around the ASP contest at ikumi beach collecting everybody’s autographs. those 2 kids had the biggest smiles on their faces and that’s what i remember about them the most. now yujiro is a JPSA contest competitor, who even won an event. and reki is jamming his guitar and playing live music all over japan. back 15 years ago, i would have never imagined sitting down and having a drink with this kid. gosh, how time flies….
although reki loved hanging around the ASP events, he hated surfing contests. he quit and became a soul surfer. and a soul surfer he is. nice grab rail cutback reki….
and last, i have a few pen pals that travel around japan searching for the perfect wave. this was last week. oh my gosh!!!! i want some of that. thanks for the photo dude….
Dove Wetsuits Blog….
**i’ve been so dam busy recently that i have no time to check my friends and sponsors blogs. i had to order my new wetsuit so i clicked on the dove website and ended up on there for over an hour looking at all the photos. here are a few….
this is jun’s shop in hiroshima called “NINE SURF”. jun’s a really good surfer and a really nice guy. just wanted to say hello to everybody at nine surf. “jaken” and see you in october….
then i found this photo of dove models when they had a photo shoot at the factory. i’m a little upset because nobody told me about this photo shoot. what’s going on???? haha…
i love teaching people how to surf. this was in shikoku earlier this year before the tssc users contest. these girls did a great job!!!
wade tokoro, welcome to japan!!! gosh, i’ve known wade for over half my life… oh, and hi tokura-san. where are we going to catch the next typhoon????
what’s up wakita. long time no see. hey, don’t order the same color wetsuit as me. haha…
is this a photo of hiromichi-san? fricken awesome!!!!
spice clothing has a girls line too. kawaii….
and once again. if nobody from dove calls me for the next photo shoot, i’m going to get a little angry…. haha.. just joking. i just wanted to ask who picks these models? who ever it is, your doing a great job!!!
**CLICK HERE FOR MORE PHOTOS ON DOVE WETSUITS BLOG….