Thursday October24日 2024年

Got BEEF?

OFF THE WALL: 2 DAYS AFTER….

good morning. 6:15am and the waves aren’t looking too good. the north and south buoys came up a little but the waves still look small. i see some chest high sets at pipe, probably pupukea is bigger. just watch your car because i heard a lot of surfers have been getting ripped off. when ever i drive around the north shore, i always picture myself catching somebody breaking into cars. that’s why i have a baseball bat in my car. you steal? i’ll break your hands with my bat. didn’t i tell you i’m a part-time undercover police officer? haha… back to the waves. a new south swell supposed to be filling in today but it’s still knee/waist high right now. really bad weather again on the way. ummm… where should i surf???? that’s a tough call today. i hope you don’t have to make these kind of tough decisions like me everyday. haha.. i was just telling a friend yesterday “THE OCEAN DICTATES MY DAY”. but today, i’m lost…. have a good one…
**wanted to thank gordinho for sending me these photos from off the wall 2 days ago. what a beautiful day it was!!!!

i was riding a 6’2 X 18 1/4 X 2 1/4 mike woo squash tail. G-5 fcs fins. it felt good in the barrel….

and felt good on the lip. when i first saw this photo, i thought it was somebody else. haha… i didn’t know i still could do turns like this. thanks gordinho for making me look good. this one’s a keeper….

and after i seen this photo i didn’t realize how ugly i was.. haha… wanted to say thanks to all my sponsors out there….

and last, wanted to thank kazuya-san and okumura-san for a fun session yesterday. we have a lot in common. isoko bar in osaka, and tssc surfboards….. tell koji-san i said hello and hope to visit isoko bar this april. talk stories and sip on jack/cokes… enjoy the rest of your stay in hawaii. mahalo….

Topples in Honolulu….


wasn’t today a beautiful day? i drove around town looking for the best spot. from diamond head to kewalo’s. everywhere was glassy and it felt like summer…. ended up surfing diamond head for 3 hours. i’m totally sunburned. and i finally returned to my natural color, black. gosh, it felt so good surfing without a wetsuit. more beautiful weather on the way…

there was no wind when we paddled out at 9am. then at 11am on the dot, the tradewinds came back. that means good conditions everywhere all day long… yeah!!!

last night was so fun. it was the first time i went to a saint patrick’s block party in downtown. there seemed to be millions of people. it was so crowded that i kept bumping into sweaty drunk people and everybody’s beers were spilling all over me. from where i parked my car to where my friends were, it took me 45 minutes. walking 2 blocks with streets packed with people wasn’t easy…

millions of happy people wearing green. i think i was the only one not wearing green… oh well….

as i was walking back to my car, i seen this club with a studio set up inside. this guy was doing body painting for only $20. topples girls with only paint covering their top? in honolulu? wow, i thought that was pretty cool….

and last, i wanted to wish alyssa wooten a happy 18th birthday today. may all your dreams come true!!! [:??$B!^(B??????:] CLICK HERE FOR ALYSSA’S BLOG….