good morning. 6:45am on this windy tuesday morning. gosh, things were flying outside my house last night. there’s still a lot of north in the winds so the conditions aren’t that great on the north shore. seen some 4′ sets and i’m hoping the winds turn more out of the east and waves get better as the day goes on. i got the kids with me today so we’re probably going to surf all day. then i’ll let them loose at the house and they will probably end up in the tree house like little monkeys… gotta get out of here… have a nice day…

every time i sit outside of ted’s bakery at sunset eating my shoyu chicken plate, i stare at this painting of the late ronnie burns. i was fortunate to know ronnie burns and even surfed the HPAC pro contests when he was surfing it. i will never forget the biggest HPAC pipeline pro final back in the 80’s. tony moniz was in the final so i was his caddy. i was sitting on tony’s 8’0 in the channel when the waves got so big and out of control. it was almost dark but they had to finish the contest. every body was getting cleaned up by the second reef sets and i remember ronnie turning around on an inside 12′ double up, taking the late drop, and pulling into the hugest barrel. of course, he made it. and of course, he got a perfect 10. and of course, he won the contest with that one wave. ronnie passed away in a motorcycle accident at the tender age of 27 years old. it was a huge loss to the surfing world…

and last, leave you today with this photo i love. little boy, don’t give up. dreams do come true….

Doggie….

good evening. wow, what a pretty long day it was. busy busy and busy but once i hit the water, nothing else was on my mind. it was just me and the ocean…

shun came in today. he came out of customs smiling and the first thing he asked me was “nami dou”…. which means, “how are the waves”…. what a cute kid….

hayato finally speared a couple of big kumu’s. he started diving about 5 years ago and was trying to catch a big one since then. now, he knows how to find and stalk kumu’s so he’s going to be having awesome dinners. once again, this is the prize fish in hawaii and if you ever had the chance to taste one, you’ll know why.. next thing on hayato’s mind is a big ulua or “GT”…. by the way, hayato also speared a good size “ika”, “cumicumi”, or squid. a rare thing to spear in hawaii….

naoka, hayato, and i speared so many fish today. it’s back to the north shore tomorrow so it will be fresh fish on the go-naminori house dinner menu. these are the prize fishes. don’t touch it… haha…

this was our catch today. not bad for 3 guys yeah? naoka is getting better and better and i hope he can spear a kumu before he goes back to japan…. oh, see that ika in the middle?

here it is.. ikadakimasu!!! it was swimming at 3pm in the open ocean, then it was on our dinner table at 6pm…. that’s the rewards of diving… can’t get any fresher… thanks hayato for the ika….
**by the way, there was an aggressive shark where we were diving. every time i speared a fish, it would come up to try to eat it off my spear. i kicked it twice with my fins and he still didn’t want to leave. the shark has to be over 12′ for me to give up my dinner. i’m freaking so tired. going to surf all day tomorrow… have a safe evening and hope you don’t see any sharks tonight….