ala moana bowls going off!! south swell again… yeah!!!!

good morning. big stormy waves on the north shore. 8-10′ or even bigger. hey, another south swell in town. bowls chest high and perfect with only 3 guys out. i bet diamond head is even bigger and better. gotta get going. have a nice day…

get ready for a nightmare winter season. starting today, they will be doing construction from off the wall to sunset beach. i heard they are going to close a lane from 8:30am to 3pm monday to friday. expect long traffic delays. i just have one question for our government. is this the right time? can’t you wait till summer??? help!! i’m glad i have a bicycle but am feeling sorry for people that don’t….

and since president obama got sworn in yesterday, there is some hope in this world. i’ve never ever asked a president for help before but i think it’s time. MR. PRESIDENT, CAN YOU PLEASE HELP OUR COUNTRY GET OUT OF THIS RECESSION? MR. PRESIDENT, CAN YOU PLEASE SEND HOME OUR TROOPS THAT ARE IN IRAQ? AND MR. PRESIDENT, CAN YOU PLEASE HELP ALL THE NEEDY PEOPLE IN THIS WORLD? I HAVE FAITH IN YOU AND KNOW IF THERE IS ANYBODY IN THIS WORLD THAT CAN DO IT, IT’S YOU…. THANKS MR. PRESIDENT. OH, AND MR. PRESIDENT, ONE LAST THING, “SURF YOUR DREAM”….

konban wa. woke up early morning to check the waves. was too dark so i came back and checked the winds on my computer. the wind was offshore out here on the north shore but the wind stations in town posted west winds. shit, better get it early. went to the dove house to grab everybody, paddled out to lani’s, only 2 other guys out. surfed for 40min then there came the west winds right on time. then the conditions were bad for the rest of the day. lucky we got up early today…

then back for lunch. or should i say, brunch. maguro chazuke donburi. oishikatta!!!

then it was time for a second lunch. raw shirasu and baby octopus over hot rice. thank you kimura-san and yamari…

back to the secret spot yesterday. the 6 of us left the north shore around 3pm. we drove for 1 hour, parked our car, climbed over a mountain, got bit by thousands of mosquitos, walked for 30 minutes in waist high deep mud, paddled out 20 minutes, then finally arrived at our secret spot. the waves were 4′ and square. yeah, thick barrels. we scored big time… wanna go there? try to find it… haha…

and last, just to let you know that they have been setting up DUI roadblocks on the haleiwa bypass around 9pm at night. you shouldn’t be drinking and driving but i’d just thought i’d let you know… drive safe. and drink safe…
**north winds blowing hard now. big swell tonight but junky winds. maybe a day off tomorrow. have a great evening..