good morning. 6:30am and going surfing. there is no wind out here and i can hear the waves breaking at rocky’s. it’s still dark but i’m guessing 2-4′ and pretty dam good. it’s been a while since the waves have been good on the north shore. can’t wait…. have a nice day…

when i was driving out to the north shore with hayato yesterday, i was looking back in my car and wondering how the heck everything fit. 9 surfboards, bags, clothes, a cooler, food, and all kinds of other things all fit. i love my car…

driving by lani’s yesterday, i was glad to be out here. just the smell of the fresh air and the sound of the ocean makes me happy….

i walked into the dove house and satoshi was sitting in front of the light trying to dig out the rest of the vana. i bet you anything he was there for 4 hours straight. i told him not to touch it because the vinegar did the job, but he wouldn’t listen to me. and he’ll probably be doing the same thing again today….

then we had a small barbecue at the dove house. we stood in front of the barbecue for 2 hours eating, talking, drinking, and eating. i was so full after eating all those oysters, chicken, steak, corn, salad, and everything else. thank you tokura-san….
**and last, i just posted another youtube. it’s a slide show from the 2008 local motion surf into summer they held at bowls. the one seth and josh moniz kicked ass, and the one shark attack victim todd murashige won his division…

good evening. packed my bags, loaded up my boards, and checked into the go-naminori house. i’m loving it out here. take a stroll on the bike, check the waves, chill out in the back yard, it’s all good. now my north shore season has begun and i’m going to be surfing a lot. see you in the water. oh, the waves are cleaning up too. south winds expected tomorrow? know what that means? epic conditions out here. surf, surf, surf….

it’s been a long time since i had a crazy saturday night fever in town. we went to a restaurant on the top of the sheraton hotel. it’s kind of a high class place with high class people. that’s why i felt out of place. haha.. anyway, there was a fight in there and on the way down in the elevator, the guy that got punched was pretty pissed off. we were all squished in the elevator when he started saying how pissed he was. he got aggro and was scaring the girls in the elevator so this other guy got pissed. shit, i thought there was going to be a huge fight in there. once the door opened, all hell broke loose. the guy was jumping around wanting to fight anybody that moved. security and all. it was pretty intense but at the same time, pretty entertaining. better than the UFC fights in vegas…

so we walk to nobu’s. drank asahi beer, nobu sake, and jack and cokes. hey, if you want the strongest jack/coke in town, sit at the bar in nobu’s. oh my gosh…

along with good sake, you need good food. the poke there was pretty good. expensive but good….

then it was 2pm in the morning and we were getting hungry again. my friend took us to eat pho. this was our waitress. as i was sipping on my hot pho, i was thinking, “where the heck am i?” it was the first time in my life i ate pho while sipping on a jack and coke. i guess you can say that we went deep into the night. fun, crazy, adventurous, and can’t wait till next saturday night. [:?????$B!x(B???:] from where ever it was last night. i still don’t remember, september[:????$B”L(B?:][:????$B”L(B?:][:????$B”L(B?:]

pipeline 4:02 surf check. getting better and better. tomorrow? i
think so…