Wednesday October23日 2024年

Hard Core Travelers….

good chilly saturday morning. i think this is the first time we got north winds this winter season. it’s freezing cold!! the waves are junky and stormy on the north shore again but town is looking fun. i’m guessing diamond head is the best spot today? 2′, perfect off shore, and a lot of waves. and probably a lot of people. but it’s all good because it’s good to share waves with everybody right? i like to share waves so much but i like to be in front. some people call that dropping in but not me, i call it sharing… go out and share today.. see ya…

we were surfing this secret island spot in east indonesia back in september. then this 14′ catamaran pulls up with 2 surfers from australia. there was no motor on the boat and i can’t believe how this little thing made it all the way to indonesia. the guy and girl said it took them 2 months. this is what you call “hard core traveling”….

been watching the news on president bush recently and he’s not that popular. i would be pretty bummed if somebody on the other side of the world dressed up like this mocking me. my feelings would be hurt…. ouch…

Extreme or Crazy Diving?

hayato and i are crazy. well, that’s what everybody’s been tell me after i told them we went diving today. extreme? desperate? hard core? or plain stupid? none of the above. we just wanted to dive so we went diving. pretty simple. so we ignored the high wind warning and every other kind of warning and went surfing diving. yeah, we grabbed longboards, paddled 2 miles straight out to sea, and dove all morning….

will all this rain we’ve been having, the mountains are as green as it gets. this mountain is usually brown but not now. this is what i call “the calm before the storm”….

don’t let this photo fool you. at one point, we were so far out that you couldn’t even see the houses on the beach. then the storm came. i stuck my head out of the water and i couldn’t see anything, not even the 2000′ high mountains. it was kind of freaky but we kept on diving. i learned not to panic and to relax. so that’s what we did. anyway, i took this photo on the way back passing makapuu. it was beautiful…. the calm after the storm. haha…

today wasn’t the greatest for fish but we got a few. we speared those big nenue’s for the family that was on the beach. the lady was watching my car for me so nobody would steal it. and lucky nobody stole it because i parked it at on of the most dangerous beaches on the island… it’s so dangerous that i can’t even say the beaches name…

we were starving from all that paddling and swimming. hayato made the call for a garlic chicken bento. and that was the right call….

then i went back to t-mobile to take back that piece of crap $200 phone i bought yesterday. i waited again for 2 hours and i’m back to where i started 2 days ago. with my old phone. i hate this digital world….

Makapuu….


ame doko? suyoi kaze doko? saki makapuu no hou wa paradise deshita….
hey, where is the rain? where is the wind? gosh, makapuu was like
paradise…
GONE DIVING….