good evening. i had another long day and don’t want to be on my computer too long because tomorrow is going to be another long day. here’s a brief summary of my day. surf, surf, and surf….

felt like surfing somewhere else so i surfed rocky point. look how perfect it was. and get this, i paddled out and the only local out there was flynn novak. then he went is so it was pretty much catch a set, then catch another one. i’m glad i recharged my batteries because i had so much energy today…

it started to get crowded around 10am. i had enough already so i caught a wave to go in. pulled into a barrel, the broke my board. yeah, my first broken heart of the year. i mean board. TSSC, help!!!

had a bunch of japanese surfers out there catching a lot of waves. this is tetsu urayama on his last wave of the day…

i don’t want to sound cocky or anything. but i’ve been scoring so many good waves and seem to be in the best spot at the best time. today it was rocky point. and imagine it uncrowded. i was surprised myself….

seen my friend matt checking backdoor early morning. i told him rocky point will probably be good and he was already surfing when i pulled up. i hope he doesn’t think it’s like that every day. last month, there would have been 100 pro’s out there….

the media is getting crazy these days. you can’t hide from the cameras anymore. the surfing paparazzi has come….

even japanese surfer yasuko shinozuka caught a lot of waves out there. where the heck was everybody else?? anyway, more photos coming tomorrow. more waves coming tomorrow. more surfing coming tomorrow. more happiness coming tomorrow. see you tomorrow. good night…

good waves all over. this is backdoor…..
nami doko demo yokatta desu. kore wa backdoor desu…

good morning. 6am monday morning. welcome back to work everybody. hope you had a great christmas and new years. gosh, didn’t it go by so fast? i’m looking at the waves but it’s pitch dark so i can barely see. after checking the buoys and wind data, i’ll just guess what the waves are doing. north shore is in the 3-4′ range and south shore is still pumping 3′. what i know for sure is that nobody is out surfing yet. should i go north? or should i stay south? umm… that’s a tough one. all i know is that i’m leaving my house and going to decide while i’m on the freeway. either way, i’m going to surf good waves so it doesn’t really matter. gosh, sometimes it’s so hard to make decisions in life… haha… see you in the water….

i was walking back to my car yesterday when i passed by this japanese girl sitting in front of the ocean painting something. it looked pretty cool so i stopped to check it out. she was painting a beautiful water color painting of our blue ocean…

pretty cool yeah!!!

her name is miyoko-san. she uses her spare time painting our beautiful pacific ocean. and does an awesome job…

and last, micah moniz pulling into a happy new year backdoor barrel. photo by tammy moniz. are they related? haha. have a nice day!!