my favorite place…

before i left hawaii, i took a walk around my house. i was looking at the mountains and everything was so green. and the air so clear. i thought to myself how lucky i am to be born and raised in hawaii….

then i took a look at my neighbors mango tree. there were ripe juicy mangos everywhere. some even rotting on the ground. i guess people in hawaii don’t know how much mangos are worth in japan. it’s like gold….

check out kazubo-san and kazuma coming out of the water from a surf in okinawa. 2 great surfers….

we were surfing this point right that broke over knee high deep water with razor sharp reef. there’s no way you can go left but kimura-san somehow found a way. i thought it was pretty crazy…
**and last, i told you that i was going to post photos from yesterdays session. i thought about it again and decided not too. a lot of people already know where i am and out of respect for the locals, i will post the photos when the waves drop. which i hope ain’t anytime soon… have a beautiful day!!![:?????$B!x(B???:]

good evening. it took me almost 10 hours to get here since i left the beach hotel in okinawa. car, airplane, train, train, train, and car. and the whole time with my heavy camera bag, 25 kilo suitcase, and surfboard bag. my injured shoulder was in pain the whole way but it was worth it. why? because i woke up in front of the most beautiful mountain in the world, mt. fuji….

i left the beach hotel and was so happy to see everybody come down to say goodbye. the goodbye is always the hardest part of any trip. it was actually kind of sad leaving….

i wanted to thank miki-chan from island message diving for taking me to the airport. she even carried all my baggage to the check in counter. i really really appreciate it!!! thanks miki-chan…

if you ever have time to kill at naha airport. go to the arrival 1st floor and right outside of the door to the left is an okinawan soba shop. i love it there. all this for 850 yen…

then i came to the best fish restaurant in shizuoka. check out these magura kama? and to think that people in hawaii throw it away. what a waste..
**i’m downloading the photos i took today so stay tuned tomorrow. the waves were fricken going off!! i couldn’t be patient anymore. i paddled out, caught 3 waves in pain. i pretty much took off with one hand and even got barreled. my body feels even more sore now but it was worth it. i feel great!!! demo itai!!!