good evening. don’t tell anybody, but there was a little south swell today in town. i surfed bowls 2x total of 4 1/2 hours. caught so many waves and had so many fun. i mean much fun. i’m burnt, i’m tired, and i’m going to sleep. it’s day 2 of 2009 and i feel like it’s february already. i’m going to charge my batteries tonight and have another day of surf tomorrow. and if your still waiting for my emails, please wait a little more. i’m freakin tired…. good night…

clark little sent me an awesome christmas card. and now i just got this crazy awesome new years card. gosh, i said it before and i’ll say it again. nobody in the world comes close to clark little when it comes to shore break water photos. check out this photo of our recent brown water out on the north shore. freaking artistic, and freaking awesome… he didn’t say where this was but i know where. and sorry i ain’t telling. anyway, clark little’s work is getting huge in japan and if you look at his website, you’ll know why. and it’s now translated into japanese. check it out…
**CLICK HERE FOR CLARK LITTLE PHOTOGRAPHY…

gas wa yasuku narimashita. saiko desu!!! kore kara ippai unten
shimasu.
gas prices are way down. now you’ll see me all over this island….

good morning. 6:30am and it’s raining again. trade winds blowing and supposed to get stronger. the waves on the north shore dropped in the 2-4′ range. i hate to say it but yesterday was the day. if you missed it, you missed it. if you surfed it, you scored big time. i see a little small swell in town. chest high if you know where to look. it’s the 2nd day of the year and i’m going surfing all day again… see you in the water.. and wanted to say thanks to everybody for the new years cards and emails. sorry for my late response but another one of my new years resolutions was to stay off my computer as much as i can. i’ll try to get back to you all soon. have a beautiful day!!!
**more photos from yesterday’s awesome day….

shinpei wasn’t using a leash so when he lost his board, kaishu went to grab it for him. japanese team work….

this is keiji murata. i remember this little kid hanging around ikumi beach in shikoku just a few years ago. now he’s grown up kid…

this is yasuko shinozuka from a secret spot in japan. i’d have to kill you if i told you where that was. go-naminori interview coming soon….

this is my friend yukari-san’s son, kaisa kawamura. kaisa got some good waves at pipe yesterday…

this is young shikoku boy kaishu tanaka taking off on a pretty big wave. he’s still a grom but can pick off a set at backdoor with a 6’0. that’s pretty impressive….

hi yukari-san. your son is fine here in hawaii. happy new year!!