demo nami ga nai…
but no waves….

good sunday morning. another day of tiny waves around the island. i don’t know why but i see 15 guys out at bowls and 5 out rockpiles. maybe there are freak sets? north shore looks pretty much flat and nobody is out at pipe. diamond head is probably your best bet today. have a fun and safe day….

just want to say hello to kenichi-san and seiji-san from “Ika’ika”. can’t wait to see you guys play live again…

and what’s up zuccho, jasmin, and ushikoshi. this is a cool photo manabu nomoto took. why wasn’t i in there? haha…
**ever ate shit on a big wave? imagine somebody dumping 3 olympic swimming pools on your head at the same time. some survive, some don’t. check out these crazy wipeouts at waimea bay. and if you think this is bad, imagine the ones that aren’t being documented. ouch… if you surf big waves, be prepared to pay the price….

this mornings honolulu advertiser newspaper read “POWERLESS”…. yeah, we were powerless, and pretty much helpless for 12 hours last night. i slept really good and when i woke up, everything was back to normal. then i was thinking about something. what if bali, or LA, or the philippines, or thailand went powerless for 12 hours? looting? stealing? violence? raping? gosh, i could imagine. lucky we live in hawaii, everybody just went home and to sleep. that’s the part i love about hawaii. the aloha spirit….

it was pretty freaky seeing waikiki all black. imagine the tourist stuck in their rooms? they couldn’t eat? if i was sitting in my hotel room in another country and everything just went black, i’d freak. then when i get out of my hotel and see the whole island black, i’d freak out more. i was kind of freaking and i live here. hawaiian electric company should give the tourists a free dinner coupon or something. or at least, say sorry…

before the lights went out, i was eating my awesome shirasu salad. it tasted good in the light, and tasted good in the dark…

DHLH means diamond head light house. that’s where i surfed this morning. nobody was out when i paddled out and by the time i went in, 6 guys came out. the waves were fun if you got the right one. i like light house on windy days because you have to work for your wave….

and last, check out this guy getting ready to punch the guy lying on the mat. that’s mixed martial arts fighing or MMA. it’s amazing how far this sport has come. bigger than boxing. who’d ever thought…