8:30am. south shore going off!!!

good morning. wow, what great days of surfing we’ve been having. i haven’t seen so many broken boards on the south shore my whole life. in fact, this was only the 2nd board i broke on the south shore. the last swell was strong and the whole ocean was moving. even the boats in the protected harbors were rocking. a lot of surfers are calling this summer the best ever. and it’s not even over yet. everybody is surfed out, so am i. got things i have to do so i’m going to do it before the next south swell hits on tuesday. if waves were food, i’d be full already. we say in japanese “onaka ga ippai”… oh… and a couple of guys asked me why i wasn’t shooting photos. i told them “when the waves are big and barreling, i don’t shoot. i surf. and stop trying to get me out of the lineup.” but good try. haha..
anyway, it’s 6:30am and the waves dropped a little. it’s still 4′ solid and super clean and sunny right now. already a lot of surfers in the water. another perfect day here!!! have a good one!!!

kyle, chris, and travis went blue water diving the other week and caught 4 ono’s. gosh, that’s a lot of sashimi… good job guys…

i took this video clip last time i went trolling with my friend ryan’s boat. is this a shark? or a dolphin? what do you think???

and last. someday i will own a big boat. big enough to take my friends sailing around the world to enjoy life. so every time i see and ride one, i feel like i’m getting one step closer to my dream. 20 years ago you would think i’m crazy to have such a big dream like that. but as life rolls on, i feel it coming…. i already know that dreams come true, but this is a pretty dam big dream and i can’t wait to see what happens….

good evening. i came back from my 2 boat trips totally surfed and burnt out. i wanted to relax in hawaii and get some work done but the waves are interfering. yeah, the waves have been too dam good to anything else but surf. i’ve been surfing more than i surfed on my boat trips. today was probably the best day i ever surfed big rights. i paddled out this morning around 7:30am and hardly anybody was out. it was 3-5′ and barreling. i got so many barrels that i was satisfied enough. then i was planning to go for another evening session but decided to just go at 2pm and fight the peak crowd. i got out there and nobody was out. none of the boys so i was pretty much catching any wave i wanted. all 5′ sets and all barrels. i haven’t surfed big right’s that good for over 6 years. i thought i was dreaming… anyway, i surfed for 6 hours today and i am fried like a burnt piece of meat. and as i was paddling in, i was thinking to myself, “i’m either a lucky guy, or i’m freaking dreaming”…. it seems like the waves are following me around the world. but you know what? i like it that way. tomorrow will be a break day for me and from monday, i’m surfing 6 hours a day, everyday…. i gotta go get all the water out of my brain. i feel like a fish…. have a great evening…

i broke my magic board yesterday so i called up mike and asked him to lend me his new demo. it’s called a CYBER KRYPTON produced by TSSC SURFBOARDS in japan. i surfed it this afternoon and it worked super good. good paddling, easy to turn, and good for barrel riding. i’m going to order one tomorrow…..

i really don’t know what the concept is because i didn’t have enough time to ask mike. but for me, board concepts and looks don’t matter. as long as it works, i’ll ride it. and that’s what i’m going to do….

and last, i threw away my board in the rubbish can at ala moana park. a couple of my friends told me that they seen my board there. but when i went there today, it was gone. i guess somebody took it home….