good evening. today was one of the smallest days for surf around the whole island. but you know what? waikiki was as perfect as it gets for longboarding… that’s where i went this morning and had a great time. the water is still trying to clean up but i’m guessing another 5 days or so for it to get back to normal. more rain in the forecast so might be even longer….

seeing the dirty water for the past 8 days is pretty depressing. i should have taken a trip. this is tahiti cruzing with sonny tanabe tim nakamura, and wendell ko. this is as beautiful as it gets. i wish i was there right now…

my water camera can’t go down more than 10′ or 3 meters. so i just shot this photo from the top. see those 2 guys down there? look good and you can see wendell ko and kyle nakamoto down there in deep blue tahiti. i’d estimate this dive at 90′. pretty dam impressive..

this was one of the best days at v-land earlier in the winter season. this is seth moniz dropping into a pretty thick good size wave….

wanted to wish hard core surfer amy chiang over there in hong kong a speed recovery. she just cut her feet by her fins on her surfboard charging thick shorebreak barrels. gosh, that looks sore… itai… hope you recover soon amy…

and last, they still can’t finish the womens billabong pro at honolua bay. the waves are flat and the forecast isn’t looking too good. now what does the ASP do? CLICK HERE FOR THE CALL….

8am. not so good today. anmari yokunakatta desu….

good morning. 6am tuesday morning. trade winds finally back. it’s feeling pretty cool and hopefully the waves are cool too. north shore looks pretty small, maybe 2′ if your lucky. still too dark to see town but don’t get your hopes too high because it ain’t going to be anything like yesterday. i think we scored diamond head yesterday morning. still no sign of any big swell on the north shore anytime soon so get use to riding your small board ripping up the small waves. and if you want clean water, diamond head or hanauma bay is the call. i gotta get going. have a nice day…

after a long day yesterday, we had a barbecue for my nephew noah who’s back from iraq for a couple of weeks. i popped a beer along with my 1st round of poke. shoyu/ahi, tako poke, tako wasabi, and raw white crab. oh so good…

then round 2 was desert. fresh opihi’s from kauai…. oh my gosh…. after round 3 of poke, my dinner was finished…

poke equals beers. beers equals noise. you should have heard us last night. i snuck away and went to bed around 9pm. of course, with my earplugs in..

i took this photo yesterday at hanauma bay. this is called a manini. throw it on a barbecue, put some salt and butter, then it’s good to go. we call it, “the poor man’s lobster”. after a few beers, everything with butter taste like lobster…

and last. i really want to get barreled!!! maybe i’ll find one in waikiki today…