good afternoon. surf, swim ,surf, eat shave ice. what a day… pulled up to diamond head and expected to see junky dirty waves. instead, the water was clean and so were the waves. score…

shoulder high clean waves with not too many guys out. had a great morning session….

then went to give kalua a shower. he loved it…

then wen to see a dog swimming in the ocean…

then went to hanauma bay for a swim with the fish…
then went back to surf diamond head.
then went to eat shave ice.
then i just got home.
then i’m going to a barbecue and drink some beers.
then i’m going to sleep.
then i’m going to do the same thing over tomorrow…
good night…

good morning. oh my gosh, it’s 5am and i’m wide awake. i guess that’s what happens when you fall asleep at 9pm i guess. 8 hours of solid sleep is more than enough. got a long day ahead. planning to surf 2x somewhere that has clean water. sandy’s? mokulea? hanauma bay? the pool? haha… i hope the sun comes out today because i forgot what it looks like. and i hope it doesn’t rain because i just washed my car. oh, i can see some waves on the north shore. 2-3′ and nice…. have a nice day…

i was checking out this japanese magazine called “Madame Figaro” and came across someone i knew….

it was alyssa!!! gosh, she’s been in a lot of magazines recently. great job alyssa….

i’m on the surfers journal mailing list so i get newsletters and stuff once in a while. this photo was in there and it caught my eye. yeah, boats tend to catch my eye. anyway, john callahan took it at Ras Nouadhibou peninsula, Mauritania. where? where the heck is that? another callahan discovery? i’m going to email him and try to get some details. i wonder how the diving is there?

and last, speaking about boats. there are 2 that stuck out near ala moana bowls. one on the reef, and one on the wall. that must suck….

good marathon sunday. gosh, i wish i ran the thing this morning. i got up at 5am and was wide awake. ended up running 1 hour in the gym and all i was thinking was about the marathon next year. i’m running 5 miles/hour so i can finish it in 5 hours right? is that how it works? i got 1 full year to train and i’m pretty excited. and wanted to say congratulations to all the competitors today. omedetou gozaimasu….

typhoon heading to japan in december? wow!! in my 17 typhoon seasons in japan, this year has to have been the worst. i usually surf 6 or 7 typhoons a year in japan but this year, only one. all the river mouths were set up perfectly and just waiting for swell but nothing came while i was there. if it wasn’t for that typhoon down in okinawa in august, i would have gotten skunked. well guys, here it is, typhoon 22 heading past the philippines heading straight for japan. surfs going to be up in a few days. i wish i could jump on a plane tomorrow and surf it with you guys. or even head to cloud 9, philippines. nothing happening in hawaii for a while so enjoy that typhoon….

micah moniz at age 5 was already a charger. i remember going down to the west side to watch him in the TT motorcycle races. he was like the youngest kid with the smallest bike going up against the older more experienced kids. he lined up at the starting line, did a lap, and was doing really good until his little wheels got stuck in the mud. it was pretty classic. i still got the video of that whole night. then he went on to become a hardcore dirt bike rider. when micah was 7 or 8 years old, i use to go up to the kahuku trails after surfing the north shore to watch them ride. he use to fly over jumps with no fear at all, which i thought was crazy. i remember driving down the mountain that day thinking “shit, if micah surfs, he’s going to charge”. i knew his day will come….

10 years later at age 17, micah’s a regular at pipeline. he’s putting in his time and making his way to the peak. i remember last year i paddled out really early in the morning on a solid 8-10′ pipe day. micah was already out. gosh, i was so proud of him. and this year, he surfs pipe more than me….

when micah was a kid, we use to play together with swords and toys. today, we play together with surfboards and barrels. micah turned into a fine young man, and even though he’s way bigger than me, he’ll always be my little nephew…