Saturday October26日 2024年

Kelly Slater Wins on 5'11…

good evening. i went out to watch the contest and i’m glad i did. it turned out to be the backdoor fiesta. i saw some of the most amazing rides from kelly slater on his 5’11. yeah, i said 5’11….

the gallery was huge. i bet the internet gallery was even bigger…

i sat next to ben aipa during kelly and tim reyes semifinal heat. tim was winning big and kelly needed 2 big scores with only 8 minutes left. i told ben that i was going home because kelly was going to lose. ben said the same thing. 2 minutes later, kelly was winning the heat. yeah, he got a 9.0 and perfect 10 point ride in 2 minutes. superman? yup. ben and i were laughing. i call kelly superman and ben calls him superfreak… either or, he’s not human….

then the rain started coming so i headed to the billabong house…

and ate a billabong plate lunch. gosh, my dream is to buy that house and do the same thing. invite my friends from around the world, have chef craig sako cook up some meals, and enjoy life….

then i raced back in town before traffic because i felt like running for some reason. so running it was. i parked at kapiolani park and ran around diamond. i stopped by to check the waves and gosh, it looked fun. i wish i surfed instead of running.. haha… anyway, it took me 50 minutes to make that run non stop. does anybody know how many miles it is? up diamond head and back down monsarrat ave back to kapiolani park? i was sweating like a pig after. and now i feel like running the marathon on sunday. and also feel like eating ice cream…..
**DIRTY WATER ALERT: STAY OUT OF THE WATER FOR A FEW DAYS. THERE IS SEWAGE AND ALL KINDS OF BACTERIA IN THE WATER. EAR INFECTION? SINUS INFECTION? FLESH EATING VIRUS? IS IT WORTH IT? I DON’T THINK SO. AND GUESS WHAT? MORE RAIN ON THE WAY. COULD THIS BE ANOTHER 40 DAY NIGHTMARE? I HOPE NOT. KEEP YOUR FINGERS CROSSED….

Kelly Slater Wins…


the contest was awesome. kelly slater wins!! taikai sugokatta desu.

Billabong Pipeline Masters Final Day Today…

good morning. first of all, i’d like to say congratulations to my cousin Shannon Goss for writing the script for last nights ER. i watched it and it was super good. and when i seen her name on the credits, i was so happy. congratulations shannon… as fro the surf, the dirty water pipeline masters final day is ON!! starting at 8am, the guys will be hitting the water looking for brown dirty barrels. ummm,,,, should it watch it online? or should i go watch it live? tough call. the weather’s looking pretty fine so i might go out, watch the contest, and surf haleiwa on the way back. i remember 5 years ago when the final pipe masters day was 10-15′ and perfect. i left the contest early and surfed haleiwa. it was 12′ and perfect!! it was me and 5 guys out loving life. i think shuji kasuya was out too. in fact, i remember when tony use to drag me out at 15′ closeout haleiwa and there would only be one other guy out. that was shuji. those were the days…. crazy days… anyway, i feel like surfing now so i’m going out to the north shore. with my umbrella. have a nice day….

yesterday was a good day to train in the gym. i wanted to do something different so i put on my running shoes, ran 30min on the treadmill, then hit 10 different weight machines doing 3 sets of 20 reps. only resting 30 seconds between sets. i was sweating so much and it felt good. i think i lost 5 lbs in the gym. then after i came home and ate 2 brownies and potato chips… haha. all that training for nothing….

hey, look where my other license plate ended up in japan. next to a japanese gorilla….

my friend craig sako always keeps me up to date on the traveling. he was in japan last month with kevin chong (Chef Mavro’s Executive Chef) for cooking seminars and testing out the grinds. here they on their 2nd plate of Kobe Beef in Ginza. gosh, the bill must have been nuts. i love eating kobe beef but when the bill comes, i feel like running away…. too dam expensive. i’ll just stick to eating wild boars, it’s free…

Sound, Mind, and Body are doing a christmas jam at snappers December 20th. 9-12 at snappers. see you there….

and last. BILLABONG PIPELINE PRO ON TODAY. FINAL DAY SO DON’T MISS IT…. CLICK HERE….